Glossary
An overview of frankincense (Boswellia species) resin and its applications in skincare, focusing on boswellic acids, the active compounds with documented anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and wound-healing properties. Frankincense has been used in cosmetics and medicine for over 5,000 years.
Frankincense resin contains five key boswellic acids, with AKBA (acetyl-11-keto-beta-boswellic acid) being the most potent. Boswellic acids inhibit 5-lipoxygenase, an enzyme involved in inflammatory cascades, providing anti-inflammatory activity through a mechanism different from both NSAIDs and corticosteroids.
In skin applications, boswellic acids reduce inflammation, improve skin tone, reduce the appearance of scars and stretch marks, and protect against UV-induced damage. Research published in the Journal of Traditional and Complementary Medicine demonstrated significant improvement in skin elasticity and sebum regulation with topical boswellic acid application.
Ancient Egyptians used frankincense in cosmetic preparations and embalming. Cleopatra reportedly used frankincense as part of her beauty regimen. The resin was burned in temples across the ancient world, and its smoke was believed to carry prayers to the gods, hence its Catholic liturgical use to this day.
Modern skincare uses frankincense essential oil (steam-distilled from resin), CO2 extract (which retains more boswellic acids than steam distillation), and standardized boswellic acid preparations. For anti-aging benefits, CO2 extracts and standardized preparations are preferred because they contain higher concentrations of the active boswellic acids.
Frankincense essential oil contains boswellic compounds with documented anti-inflammatory and collagen-protective properties. Regular use may improve skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of fine lines. However, steam-distilled essential oil contains fewer boswellic acids than CO2 extract. For maximum anti-aging benefit, choose CO2 extracted frankincense.
Frankincense essential oil should be diluted in a carrier oil to 1-3 percent concentration for facial use. Direct application of undiluted essential oil can cause irritation. Mix 3-5 drops of frankincense essential oil per tablespoon of carrier oil (jojoba, rosehip, or argan).
Boswellia serrata (Indian frankincense) is the most studied for skincare because it has higher AKBA content. Boswellia sacra (Omani frankincense) is the most prized for aromatherapy due to its more complex scent profile. Both provide skin benefits.
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