Glossary
An oily, waxy substance produced by the sebaceous glands in the skin. Sebum lubricates and waterproofs the skin and hair, maintains the acid mantle that protects against pathogens, and contributes to the skin's natural moisture barrier.
✋ How We Use This
This ingredient plays a role in how we approach skincare at Goodfriend. Our formulations are water-free and built around beeswax, shea butter, and coconut oil to deliver moisture that lasts.
Sebum is a complex mixture of lipids produced by sebaceous glands located in the dermis. It contains triglycerides, wax esters, squalene, free fatty acids, and cholesterol. This mixture flows through pores to the skin surface, where it spreads into a thin layer that lubricates the skin, prevents excessive water loss, maintains the slightly acidic pH of the skin surface (the acid mantle), and provides antimicrobial protection through the fatty acids it contains.
Overactive sebaceous glands produce excess sebum, which gives skin a shiny, greasy appearance and contributes to acne development. When excess sebum mixes with dead skin cells inside a pore, it forms a plug (comedone) that can become a blackhead or whitehead. Hormones, particularly androgens, are the primary driver of sebum production, which is why acne peaks during puberty and can flare during hormonal shifts.
Underproduction of sebum leads to dry, tight, and easily irritated skin. The skin's barrier weakens without adequate lipid protection, and transepidermal water loss increases. Sebum production naturally decreases with age, which is one reason skin becomes drier and more fragile in later decades.
The goal is balance, not elimination. Stripping sebum away with harsh cleansers triggers a rebound effect: the skin detects the oil deficit and ramps up production, creating a cycle of over-cleansing and over-producing. Gentle cleansing preserves some sebum. Lightweight moisturizers signal the skin that adequate lipid protection is present, potentially moderating production. Ingredients like niacinamide and jojoba oil (which mimics sebum's composition) help regulate output without disruption.
There is some truth to this observation. Higher sebum production provides a thicker lipid layer that protects against moisture loss and environmental damage. People with oily skin tend to develop wrinkles more slowly than those with dry skin. The trade-off is a greater tendency toward acne and enlarged pores.
Emerging research suggests that high-glycemic diets and dairy consumption may increase sebum production in some individuals, though the evidence is not conclusive. Balanced nutrition, adequate hydration, and hormonal health have the most significant influence on sebum output.
Handmade in Florida
Every balm and bar is formulated with beeswax from our own hives, shea butter, and natural oils. No water, no preservatives, no filler.