Glossary
A water-soluble form of vitamin B3 used in skincare at 2 to 10% concentrations for its remarkably broad range of benefits: reducing pore appearance, regulating sebum, brightening skin, reducing hyperpigmentation, strengthening the barrier, and reducing fine lines. Niacinamide is one of the most versatile and well-tolerated actives in modern skincare.
Niacinamide has earned its reputation as skincare's most versatile active ingredient. No other single compound addresses as many skin concerns simultaneously with as little irritation. At 2 to 5% concentration: reduces pore appearance (by normalizing the lipid composition of the pore lining), moderates sebum production (reduces oil output by up to 30% in clinical studies), and reduces redness (anti-inflammatory action). At 5 to 10% concentration: inhibits melanosome transfer (reducing hyperpigmentation and evening skin tone), stimulates ceramide synthesis (strengthening the barrier), and reduces fine lines (through improved skin hydration and barrier function).
Unlike retinoids (which irritate), AHAs (which sensitize to sun), and vitamin C at high concentrations (which can be unstable and irritating), niacinamide plays well with nearly everything. It pairs with retinol (reduces retinol irritation), with vitamin C (old warnings about combining them have been debunked), with AHAs and BHAs, with hyaluronic acid, and with peptides. It does not cause photosensitivity, purging, or the adjustment period that retinoids require.
Everyone. Oily skin benefits from sebum regulation and pore refinement. Dry skin benefits from barrier strengthening and ceramide synthesis. Aging skin benefits from brightening and fine line reduction. Acne-prone skin benefits from oil control and anti-inflammatory effects. Sensitive skin tolerates it well at lower concentrations (2 to 5%). Niacinamide is safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding.
Yes. The old advice against combining niacinamide and vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) was based on a study using conditions not relevant to skincare (boiling temperature, prolonged contact). At room temperature and normal skin pH, the two ingredients are stable together and may even complement each other: vitamin C provides antioxidant protection while niacinamide reduces inflammation and strengthens the barrier.
Start with 5%, which provides the full range of benefits for most people. Sensitive skin may prefer 2 to 3%. Concentrations above 10% offer diminishing returns and may cause mild irritation (flushing, tingling) in some individuals. The sweet spot for most people is 5%.
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