Glossary
An oil cold-pressed from the seeds of Oenothera biennis, notable for its high gamma-linolenic acid (GLA) content (7 to 10%). GLA is an omega-6 fatty acid with potent anti-inflammatory properties used both topically and as an oral supplement for eczema, hormonal acne, PMS-related skin changes, and general skin health.
Evening primrose oil (EPO) is valued primarily for its gamma-linolenic acid (GLA) content. GLA is an omega-6 fatty acid that the body normally converts from linoleic acid through an enzymatic process involving delta-6-desaturase. However, this conversion is impaired by age, stress, diabetes, alcohol, and hormonal fluctuations, leading to GLA deficiency that manifests as dry, inflamed, and reactive skin. Direct supplementation with GLA-rich oils bypasses the impaired conversion step.
Eczema: Multiple studies show both oral and topical EPO improve eczema symptoms, though results are variable. The GLA in EPO replenishes the GLA deficiency documented in eczema patients' skin. Hormonal skin: EPO is widely used for pre-menstrual skin breakouts and hormonal acne, based on GLA's role in modulating prostaglandin production and inflammatory response. Clinical evidence is moderate but supported by a strong mechanistic rationale. Skin hydration: Topical EPO application increases stratum corneum moisture content and reduces transepidermal water loss, improving overall barrier function.
Other GLA sources include borage oil (20 to 26% GLA, the highest), black currant seed oil (15 to 19% GLA), and hemp seed oil (1 to 4% GLA). EPO (7 to 10% GLA) is the most widely studied and most commercially available, making it the standard GLA supplement despite not having the highest concentration.
Both routes work, for different purposes. Oral supplementation (1,000 to 2,000 mg daily) addresses systemic GLA deficiency affecting overall skin health that manifests as widespread dryness and inflammation. Topical application delivers GLA directly to the area of concern for localized benefits (eczema patches, facial dryness). Many dermatologists recommend both simultaneously for severe eczema.
EPO has a comedogenic rating of 2 to 3 (moderate). Its high linoleic acid content (70 to 75%) is generally beneficial for acne-prone skin, but the moderate oleic acid content (6 to 11%) may cause breakouts in very acne-sensitive individuals. Patch test for 2 weeks before full facial use if you are acne-prone.
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